makeupbox:

Graphic Winged Liner Tutorial: Tricky to do but makes quite a statement!

Disclaimer first: this is going to take a bit of practise if you’re not used to working with liners. 

Also, I used a really bright purple liner from Lime Crime, called Orchidaceous, and I haven’t seen any dupes, so if anyone knows any similar alternatives, do reply to this post and let everyone know in case there are some who aren’t looking at spending too much on a colored liner!

You’ll need 3 shadows:

  • Pale cotton-candy pink or beige (e.g. MAC Yogurt)
  • A medium violet-blue duochrome. (I used a limited edition shade from Urban Decay called Omen, but you can also use more pink version like MAC Stars n Rockets or Coastal Scents mica Chameleon Violet, which is a great, cheap dupe of this shade.)
  • A soft grey/charcoal (I’m not going to name any shades because you can use ANY deep grey.

For the liner, I used:

  • A charcoal (grey-black) pencil from Bourjois, #51 Noir Effet Miroir
  • Lime Crime Orchidaceous, as mentioned above

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Step 1: First pack the pale pink/beige shade into the inner 1/3 of the lids.

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Step 2: With the violet shadow, run along the lower lash line, and then pack onto the outer 2/3 of the lids, blending inwards slightly along the socket line.

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Step 3: The defined crease. Use a dark grey and a small pencil brush, and run it along the outer halves of your socket line to emphasize it. This is not the fold of your crease. It’s the hollow arc above your eye ball, where your eye contour is naturally. Feel for it with your fingers.

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Step 4: Just use the brush you used earlier (to apply your purple shadow) to blend out and soften the grey line. It shouldn’t look like a harsh stripe.

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Step 5: Use your dark grey-black pencil to draw the outer end of your flick first. (If you don’t have a charcoal color, a black would work perfectly well; a charcoal is just less dramatic.) Make sure it is parallel to your lower lash line.

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Step 6: Thicken the line by drawing from the outer tip INWARDS towards the center of your lid. Then fill in the gap between the 2 lines and extend it to the inner corners.

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Step 7: This is the trickiest step. Apply the bright violet liquid liner WITHIN the V of the black winged liner. The easiest way is to place the brush down with the tip pointing outwards. You’ll actually be “stamping” your skin with the liquid on the length of the bristles.

Then, just drag it inwards gently like you would when painting your nails. The length of the brush should be against your skin the whole time. If you need to thicken the line, repeat the same movement, always moving in the same direction. 

Then finish by letting the ink dry, curling your lashes and applying mascara. It’s important to make sure you coat your lashes properly with black mascara, as there could be a lot of purple ink on them.

sedirktive:

hey, guys (especially college-bound or college-attending kiddos)! have you ever heard of dormco?
it’s an online shopping site aimed to sell carpets, furnishings and other dorm-related accessories for cheaper than you’d get them in a store. the more expensive the furnishings get, the lower the price is. it’s actually pretty neat for people who really want to have a nice dorm and pay less.
plus, your entire order (no matter how much stuff you order in one go) ships for $2.95 (so like you can get sheets, a mini-fridge, a lamp, and a rug shipped to you for under $3), which can be really fucking cheap if you look at some of those shipping costs on ebay and amazon.
the best part is, even if you aren’t living in a dorm, you can probs still use this website to get some neat things for less. i know they have lamps, bookshelves, futons, etc etc.
it’s pretty neat and i 100% recommend checking it out!

sedirktive:

hey, guys (especially college-bound or college-attending kiddos)! have you ever heard of dormco?

it’s an online shopping site aimed to sell carpets, furnishings and other dorm-related accessories for cheaper than you’d get them in a store. the more expensive the furnishings get, the lower the price is. it’s actually pretty neat for people who really want to have a nice dorm and pay less.

plus, your entire order (no matter how much stuff you order in one go) ships for $2.95 (so like you can get sheets, a mini-fridge, a lamp, and a rug shipped to you for under $3), which can be really fucking cheap if you look at some of those shipping costs on ebay and amazon.

the best part is, even if you aren’t living in a dorm, you can probs still use this website to get some neat things for less. i know they have lamps, bookshelves, futons, etc etc.

it’s pretty neat and i 100% recommend checking it out!

makeupbox:

Electric Ocean: Intense Glowing Blue-Green Smoky Eye (120 Palette 2nd Edition)

This has turned into a budget palette week!

Well, I haven’t been using them enough, and considering many of you own one or more of these, I figured I’d do a couple of looks with them. 

One of the key things about these palettes is the range of strong color options, and I picked the brightest, truest blue in the bunch, and paired it with a softer teal green. (See two circled shades above.)

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maxkirin:

Neil Gaiman’s 8 Rules of Writing, a remake of this post. Source.

Want more writerly content? Make sure to follow maxkirin.tumblr.com for your daily dose of writer positivity, advice, and prompts!

jaramo:

heyo!
don’t worry, your english turned out fine, dude.

as a foreword of warning,
it is best that you don’t use this post as a standalone tutorial, 
instead, try to use it as a study aid to help you make sense of real-life references.
(same applies for any decent “art tutorial” out there, really. :p)

bolded numbers correspond to the numbers on this post’s pictures.

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Likeable Characters

writeworld:

Anonymous said: Sorry to bother you, but I can’t get a useful answer out of search engines, and wasn’t really sure how to find it in your FAQ or Toolbox since it’s a bit of an odd and controversial topic. How can I make the reader love a character in a small amount of time? I want them to be sad and understand the other characters’ pain when the subject opts to be euthanized.

Hey there! Thanks for your question!

I don’t believe that we’ve written anything as of yet on creating a likeable character, but you might check out these posts from our fellow Tumblr writing help bloggers!

As you can see, quite a bit has been written on the subject. And that’s just from Tumblr!

Happy hunting!

-C

rillaz:

Theme 004: Heavy Seas of Love by rillaz

PREVIEW 1 | PREVIEW 2 | CODE

I’m just posting my current theme (including last.fm scrobbler). I hope you like it! :-)

Features:

  • 400px posts only
  • Infinite Scroll
  • Dropdown Menu or Standard Menu
  • ! Last.Fm Scrobbler (click ‘Read More’ to know what’s up)
  • Standard Sidebar Image
  • Reblog and Like Button
  • Up to 10 custom Links
  • and probably more idk

Friendly Reminders

  • DO NOT REMOVE CREDIT
  • QUESTIONS/PROBLEMS MESSAGE ME!
  • CLICK READ MORE FOR LAST.FM INFO

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PRINTING 101 FOR ARTISTS MAKING PRINTS

vythefirst:

ON BEHALF OF MY FRIEND I’M GETTING REALLY ANGRY THAT MISINFORMATION IS BEING SPREAD ABOUT PRINTING AND IT’S RUINING HER PRINTS AND FILES AND DKSJFKLSDJFKS

OK HERE’S THE RUNDOWN

1. SAVE YOUR FILES AS PNG OR PDF.

Do NOT use JPEG FOR THE LIFE OF YOU DON’T DO IT because every time you transfer or resave the files (eg. try uploading it on your printing website) you LOSE DATA. It is a LOSSY FILE FORMAT and every time you resave it pixelates and distorts and blurs your image so please for the love of god don’t use jpeg. I want to list alternate uses but….i really dislike jpeg in general so just don’t use it, it’s awful and it will ruin your images.

PNG and PDF are more reliable because they are not lossy files. They will retain every pixel you drew in that drawing.

Unfortunately, png sometimes doesn’t look good on tumblr and other art websites because the website will resize the image while the image is trying to retain all of the information (which causes it to look too “”“sharp”“” in a way that you can see individual and sometimes “random” pixels in the image. This is a common complaint but for printing it doesn’t matter because you want the best quality picture you can get on the paper. How it looks on paper will be very different from what it looks on the screen. If you’re really worried about that pixel look then I guess you can use jpeg for online but don’t ever use jpeg for printing).

Personally I like using PDF. Even though the file size is bigger, I feel like it’s more universal and printing companies can handle it easily versus image files like PNG. Just my opinion.

2. CONVERT YOUR FILES TO CYMK (if it’s in RBG)

I’ve tried working in CYMK and it’s a pain in the ass, because the colors are completely off from what you want to see on your screen. What I recommend is to work in RBG (Red Blue Green, for the LED lights in your computer screen. Basically it’s calibrated to look good on tv and computer screens, and things that are made of lights behind a glass in general). This will produce the best color combination that you are able to work with without any limitations.

Once you have finished your image in RBG, save a version, and then save a separate version as CYMK (Cyan Yellow Magenta BlacK, ink, calibrated to be read by printers). Make sure to flatten your image before converting so that the colorscheme doesn’t go wack when it changes file type.

It should look mostly like the picture you started with, though you might notice that some saturated blues and violets are looking greyish. That’s normal! Purple and dark blue don’t print well because it takes a sufficient amount of cyan, yellow AND magenta to produce those colors, and it tends to spread out to a greyish color because of the combination. I wouldn’t say avoid those colors altogether, but please be aware that this will happen if you use a sufficient amount of saturated blues and purples. With that being said, if you want a bright blue, instead of using ultramarine blue or some indigo color, try cyan or aquamarine. ;)

3. GENERAL TIP ON FORMATTING BEFORE I FORGET

Make sure to include BLEED. Bleed is a border of extended color from your image so that, in the case that the printer mis-trims the print, there won’t be this awkward white edge. Similarly, if it’s mis-trimmed to be too close to the edge, it won’t cut off part of your main image.

image

I took this straight from CatPrint which I use and I damn love, I def recommend for printing.

Basically, you need to give your printer an 1/8 inch leeway edge for them to cut without killing your image or leaving the awkward white. Sometimes I leave a 1/4 inch bleed for bigger images - you can’t go wrong with more bleed!

Anyway, this is my advice for printing, from my experiences! I made a lot of mistakes before and this is what I learned after a lot of trial, error and research. I would hate for people to make mistakes on the same stuff I did, so here is my contribution!

SO REMEMBER:

  1. PDF OR PNG
  2. CONVERT TO CYMK
  3. REMEMBER TO INCLUDE BLEED

Good luck!!

(c)